Nonplussed In Paros |
by Dalia
Miller
It is nearly
noon on a cloudless day in Paros, a speck in the Aegean where well developed
tourism has almost overshadowed traditional island life. We are waiting
ever so patiently upstairs at the harbor police station, hoping the captain
will soon come out of his office so that we can try to have our 40 euro
tickets waived. Through the office window, we see his glossy hair brush
well built shoulders connected to bulging biceps and we have a déjà
vu moment: This handsome island youth is almost a double for the macho
bus driver in My Life in Ruins. His assistant talks to us
between innumerable phone calls, cigarette puffs and sips of Greek coffee.
Try to relax, he advises. These things can take time.
Can you come back next week? he asks. Where are you staying?
He clearly does not understand our American sensibilities. |
Sleepy Naoussa is dazzling in the Aegean sun. |
Suddenly,
the captain emerges from his office with a megawatt smile on his face.
How can I help you? We show him the tickets and the printed
ferry schedule that proves we should have been back in time to retrieve
our cars. He mulls it all over and with an even bigger smile says, No
problem. I am taking care of this. Your tickets are cancelled. But, please,
you must complete the papers we give you now. The assistant hands
over the forms and we begin to fill them out. Where was your father
born? And your mother? What are their full names? Are they counting
us in their census? The relevance of these questions escapes us, but we
fill in every blank and leave the station with a spring in our step, ready
to experience anew all the pleasures of Paros. |
A steep lane winds into Naoussa, second largest town in Paros. |
It is four days earlier. In Athens, noisy protests in front of Parliament are becoming a distraction, and though we totally sympathize with the plight of the people, we are glad to escape the tension in the city. Our flight to Paros is a mere 30 minutes. As we begin to descend, the island comes into view with gently rolling hills and smallish mountains, glittering white villages, bays filled with sailboats and endless beaches. I have been reading everything I can get my hands on about this popular destination in preparation. I have also heard that several Hollywood celebrities and art moguls own summer homes on Paros and its neighboring island, Antiparos. What fun, I think. We land and the adventure begins.
Our luggage is loaded on a small bus and we are on our way to the Aghio Anargyri beach area at the southern edge of Naoussa, second city on the island. We have been holding reservations at a family boutique hotel for over a year. It looks quite appealing from afar and has a small pool adjoining a central tented courtyard where breakfast is served. But on closer inspection our dream falls apart. We had expected the spacious accommodations and luxurious amenities featured on the website, but instead we climb innumerable stairs to small rooms with cheap furnishings and even worse bathrooms. The air conditioning is sluggish at best, when it works. One night of substandard sleep and a lousy shower would be tolerable, but seven? One couple in our group plans to move next door to a luxury hotel after the first night. Our niece is really upset about her unclean bathroom. She will move out next, furious after an argument about hotel towels not being permitted on the beach, opting for a pleasant hotel complex across the street at the waters edge. The rest of us decide to stick it out, unwilling to forfeit our 30 percent deposits, or worse, the entire weeks charges.
Nonplussed,
we are determined to make the most out of our sojourn in Paros. A short
walk into Naoussa, down meandering lanes crowded with handsome boutiques,
bars, and restaurants, brings us to a medieval harbor dominated by a Frankish
castle and small boats bobbing at the quay. The scent of grilled fish
permeates the air. We are ravenous and quickly seat ourselves at a long
table in an airy waterfront taverna, ready to devour platefuls of kalamária
and whitebait. On the return walk home, a stop at Naoussas cathedral
regales us with a folk dance performance by costumed children complete
with island musicians and doting parents. |
Paroikia retains a medieval air with twisting covered streets. |
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The windmill in Paroikias port is the local landmark. |
The paréa makes a decision: cars are a necessity if we want to explore the whole island. We strike a bargain with the main rental agency at the Naoussa port and take possession of three mini cars for three days. One of our paréa, a seasoned tour operator on her 61st trip to Greece, is superbly qualified to head our expedition. She guides us down a winding road from Naoussa deep into the center of the island and the mountain village of Lefkes. Once the second largest town in Paros and its first capital, Lefkes gradually diminished in size as many of its residents gave up farming in favor of tourism and relocated to coastal areas. It is a stunning example of Cycladic architecture built dramatically into the mountainside with views to the sea. Indeed, Lefkes is so lovely that it is featured in the popular coffee table book: The Most Beautiful Villages of Greece. Whitewashed houses on steep streets are brightened at every turn by flower filled terraces. The central church is an architectural gem and several tourist shops sell locally made ceramics and hand-woven table linens. We stop at a tiny little square enveloped in flowers for a cool drink, and linger to reminisce about previous trips to Greece. |
An overburdened gaïdoúri (donkey) makes a delivery in Paroikia. |
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Hungry diners are drawn to To Balkóni, one of Alikis many fine seaside tavernas. |
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The massive rocks at Kolymbithres, remnants of ancient mountains. |
Car day two
has been chosen for a mini voyage to Naxos. Our three rental cars head
out early for Paroikia. We make a bee line for the most famous site in
Paros, the impressive Church of Ekatontapyliani, so named for its 100
doors. Built on the site of an ancient gymnasium, it is a vast ecclesiastical
complex comprising a large main church with a beautiful dome, baptistery
and chapel dating from the Justinian period. According to popular lore,
99 doors are visible to the eye, but the 100th door is invisible and will
only be revealed when the Greeks retake Constantinople. The church complex,
revered as the one of the holiest sites in Greece, was built by Ignatius,
a pupil of the great architect who designed the world famous Aghia Sophia
in Constantinople. A guide leading us through the church relates the following
legend: When the building was finished in Paros, the teacher came
to see the work of his pupil and became very envious when he saw how magnificent
it was. This cannot be so, the teacher said and he led Ignatius
to a gallery in the narthex to inspect some alleged imperfection, and
when Ignatius leaned over to check it out, he pushed him forcibly. The
pupil was thrown off balance by the blow and grabbed his teacher for support,
and both fell to their death at the entrance of the church below.
Downstairs, on several column bases framing the baroque door of the church,
this story is depicted in relief. |
A formidable kástro crowns Hora in Naxos. |
An impressive structure, it houses many superb pieces from ancient workshops carved out of translucent Parian marble. I am struck by the anthropomorphic statue of Gorgo (Medusa), a mythical creature with snakes springing from her hair. According to the myth, whoever sets eyes on her will be turned to stone. Noting the explanation, I immediately move on to the Archilochus room, dedicated to the great poet of Paros, considered a rival of Homer. Here one finds a masterpiece of Parian sculpture: Artemis seated on a throne wearing a pleated chiton, dating from 480 BC. Nearby, a magnificent golden amphora from a 7th century Parian workshop combines figures and geometric designs. It had not occurred to me before that Parian marble was the stone of choice for statuary and architectural ornamentation at distant sites such as Olympia, Delphi and Delos. Praxitiles used it to full advantage in his elegant sculpture of Hermes and to this day no marble on earth absorbs light to the same degree. Nonetheless, in the fifth century BC when the Acropolis was being built, Parian marble was eclipsed by lesser stone quarried in Atticas Mount Pentelikón. For me, this is a real aha moment.
Back at the
port, we board the ferry for Naxos. The largest of the Cycladic islands,
it is known in mythology as the place where Theseus abandoned Ariadne.
Today it is noted for its Venetian kástro, traditional music, and
farm fresh produce. As we approach Naxos, we are rewarded with a sweeping
vista of the hóra (port town) and to its left, the giant portárathe
massive marble gateway that today is a door to nowhere. Built on the tiny
connecting islet of Palatía, portára was once part of an
unfinished temple dedicated to Apollo. Its four marble blocks weigh 20
tons each and in the late afternoon these huge stones glitter like gold
against the sky. |
The Temple of Artemis dominates a windswept plain in central Naxos. |
The ancient
marble temple of Demeter, the goddess of agriculture, is located in the
southern half of the interior. Built in the 6th century BC, it declined
in subsequent centuries and was later repurposed as an early Christian
church. The wind rustles through its columns and we gaze at the temple
and surrounding countryside in a state of reverie. Manolis honks the horn
and breaks the spell and we pile into the taxi which whisks us to Apeiranthos,
the most traditional village on the island. In recent years tourists have
been flocking to this picturesque town which boasts a fine folklore museum,
marbled streets, a geology museum, and carnival customs unlike any others
in Greece. In the folk museum, 18th century rooms are imaginatively recreated
and a magnificent 153-piece krevatariá (bedspread) covers a bridal
bed. The taxi honks on cue and we continue our little tour, stopping briefly
by massive quarries that go back to antiquity, and then at a small side
road where a giant fallen kóuros (stylized Cycladic sculpture)
lays on the ground. Originally sculpted to hold up a roof, this statue
was abandoned by its creator due to a fault in its marble. |
Yorgos, the local fixture in Apeiranthos, sits on his stoop, enjoying the crush of visitors who stop to photograph him. |
The three taxis bring us to the port for our return ferry. Too bad there is not enough time to stroll up to the impressive kástro overlooking the harbor. We drain frappedákia (iced coffees) as we wait patiently for our boat due to arrive from Santorini, already more than an hour late. Finally back in Paros and very hungry, we dine by moonlight in Paroikia at Franca Scala, an upscale rooftop restaurant overlooking the old market street. |
As we depart Naxos at dusk, the giant portára is outlined by the fading sun. |
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Alas, there are no more bougátses at our favorite Paroikia bakery. |
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Hanging octopi lure patrons at Taverna Anargyros in Antiparos. |
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Our last day in Paros: Naoussas harbor is packed with tour boats. |
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Paroikia throngs as we bid farewell to Paros. |