Porto reveals its charms slowly, requiring time to wander and discover. Ribeira's cobbled medieval quarter is a huddle of narrow streets filled with colorful tall houses strung with laundry flapping in the breeze. Grandmothers call out to each other from second floor balconies above tiny emporiums selling bacalao (dried cod). The aroma of broa, toothsome corn bread, wafts out of wood-burning ovens. But our time in Porto is short, so we begin our morning with a stroll past the birthplace of Henry the Navigator, to be followed by a bus ride through the entire breadth of the city. "Henry's name is synonymous with Porto and all of Portugal," explains Jorge, our good-humored local guide. He points to a carved sign above the doorway--"Talent de Bien Faire"--the desire to do well. It's an aptly-chosen phrase, because Henry, the son of King Joao I, was immensely accomplished: scholar, knight, monk, and most of all, great adventurer, one who initiated the Age of Discovery and gold trade, adding new territories and riches to Portugal through his expeditions to coastal Africa. Our bus circles Henry the Navigator Square, where a grand sculpture of its namesake was installed in 1884. To the west, the neoclassic Palacio da Bolsa, Porto's former stock exchange building, is renowned for its breathtaking decor. "The gilded Arabian room is a must see," says Jorge. "It was inspired by the Alhambra. Today the room is used as a concert hall, drawing visitors from all over the world."

Soaring above the city is Clérigos Tower, the tallest structure in Porto. It was built by Nasoni, a Tuscan architect who left his imprint everywhere. "If you find the time, wind up its 225 thigh-burning steps to get a panoramic view," recommends Jorge with a devilish smile. A swing on the broad Avenida dos Aliados, a boulevard that was added to Liberdade Square in 1916, reveals an impressive lineup of Belle Époque buildings. Here are many of the city's major banks, luxury hotels, and plenty of cafes. At one end, the City Hall is a standout, distinguished by a bell tower with carillon clock. "Aliados is a great gathering place," Jorge boasts as we drive past a huge sculpture of King Pedro IV on his horse, "especially on holidays when everyone comes here to see and be seen. Even the Queen of England and the Pope have attended festivities here."

Nearby, on Rua do Campo, two famous Baroque churches nearly touch each other. The Igreja do Carmo is adorned with blue azulejos depicting the founding of the Carmelite order in the Holy Land. A one-meter house, undoubtedly the narrowest in the world, separates it from the Igreja dos Carmelitas, a convent for disabled nuns, acting as a guarantor of chastity between the two institutions. "But no one lives in the house today," says Jorge. "It's a sign of our liberated times." We swing past Livraria Lello, home to one of Europe's most beautiful bookstores. Lello's is housed in an Art Nouveau building and is renowned for its large collection of English language titles. Here came J.K. Rowling, the popular author who taught English in Porto for two years, drawing inspiration from its pointed arches, swirling staircase and stained glass ceiling for Hogwart's Castle in her "Harry Potter" series. "Photos are only permitted during a one-hour period each morning, but try to see it anyway," Jorge urges.

I marvel at Porto's newer sections, growing more affluent with each kilometer. In the Boa Vista District, two contemporary buildings have greatly enriched cultural life in the city. Casa da Música, a performance hall designed by Dutch architect Rem Koolhaas, opened its doors in 2008, receiving international acclaim for its ground-breaking design. "When Casa was inaugurated, I heard people swear that a large meteorite had landed in the city," comments Jorge. "Casa resembles a shoe box on steroids, but it has exceptional acoustics," he chuckles as we circle around the building. Three kilometers to the west, in an enormous landscaped park complete with ornamental lakes and footpaths, we pass Serralves, the Museum of Contemporary Art. Completed in 1999, it is the brainchild of minimalist architect Álvaro Siza Vieira, a Pritzker Prize laureate who also designed its furniture and fittings. The Serralves brings in cutting-edge traveling exhibitions, often collaborating with the Whitney Museum of American Art and other institutions. Today it ranks as the country's most visited museum. "Every year at the end of May, a free public festival takes place here for a 40-hour, non-stop period," says Jorge. "There are all kinds of performances and crafts exhibitions. Over 100,000 people attend."

We approach Foz do Douro where the river meets the ocean, the most exclusive neighborhood in Porto Here, opulent villas compete with new apartment buildings with unusual geometric shapes. The seafront is lined with cafes, bars and a romantic promenade known as Pergola da Foz. "This is the best spot to relax and just enjoy the view," crows Jorge. "After your third glass of port, you will swear that you can see the Statue of Liberty!" A little to the south, the tall lighthouse of Felgueiras rises on a long breakwater at the Douro's mouth. We gape at the churning ocean from afar. Giant waves crash against boulders and sea spray shoots high up into the air. Nearby, the squat tower of Sao Miguel-o-Anjo, dating from 1757, is the oldest lighthouse in Portugal. "It was built using the same techniques as the Alexandria Lighthouse," notes Jorge. "From this very spot Henry the Navigator sent off his ships on their voyages of discovery."
   

   
"Now it's time to discover the magic of port," announces Jorge. According to Jesús we are in for a treat, because Jorge is quite the oenologist, having previously worked at Sandeman, one of the Douro Valley's elite winemakers. We disembark at the Vila Nova de Gaia and board a bus headed to Graham's Lodge, nominated in 2016 as the world's most admired port brand. My own experience with port is almost non-existent. I vaguely remember sampling it years earlier in Oxford, accompanied by a chunk of Stilton and a nibble of chocolate. "I'm ready to learn," I tell Eric, whose wine palate is quite refined. Graham's history dates back to 1820, when it became one of the first English companies to invest in vineyards in the Douro Valley. Today it operates some 28 quintas (wine estates) in the Alto Douro that are owned and managed by five brothers and several cousins of the Symington family. We peruse an elaborate display on Graham's history, complete with a recent thank you letter from the Queen for a special port commemorating her 90th birthday. Another letter from Churchill extols the virtues of Graham's, his favorite brand. Antique cooper's tools and a display of vintage port bottles adorn a back wall.

Downstairs, Graham's temperature-controlled cellars are lined with endless rows of hand-made, French oak casks and vats. This is where crushed grapes from the Valley come to rest. "Barefoot treading is still part of the tradition in many estates," notes Jorge. "The pits remain in the juice to ward against bitterness. Sugar is released, turning to alcohol. Table wine has about 13% alcohol, but port is sweeter and stronger. To stop fermentation, a neutral grape spirit is added. The result is the more potent port, with 20% alcohol." This procedure dates back to the early years of port production when it was discovered that adding a wine spirit prevented deterioration during shipping.
   

   
"I am going to explain the differences between the three main varieties of port," Jorge announces. This is all new to me, of course. I sneak a satisfied smile at my husband. "Ruby port ages in a big vat for about three years," Jorge begins. "In a cask, rubies can age a little longer. The big vat allows a ruby to keep its characteristics and the tannins are not very pronounced. Ruby is great to serve with chocolate, cheese and fruit." I learn that tawny ports rest in a big vats for two years, then are transferred to smaller casks to allow for faster oxidation. "Some of the casks here are nearly 100 years old," notes Jorge. "There is more sediment in casks and the wine gets lighter in color. Tawny port can rest in these casks for up to 30 years or more. Food pairing will depend on its age."

To gain their extra qualities, vintage ports must age in a bottle. "This process can last decades, or even more," Jorge explains. Candidates for the vintage category are sampled by the Douro Port Wine Institute's board of tasters who evaluate them. Those that meet prescribed standards are authorized to be labeled as "vintage." Generally, vintage port is decanted before serving. "The oldest vintage bottle at Graham's dates from 1868," Jorge divulges, pausing in front a dark corner stacked with rarefied bottles. Under the right cellaring conditions, vintage port can be kept for 100 years or more. Rarity of a vintage will dictates its price. Since most Vila Nova de Gaia cellars were built from the late 18th century to the first decade of the 19th, many have a good stash of vintage. "Here at Graham's we employ the two-thirds rule. We will only sell a third of any vintage year, and keep the rest," Jorge comments as he leads us to a tasting room.

We gather around tables set with three glasses per place. A dark ruby reserve, about 5 or 6 years old, is poured. It is fruity and easy to drink, with only a hint of tannin. Remembering Oxford, I long for some cheese and chocolate to accompany it! A ten-year-old tawny has amber edges and is more complex, with caramel and dry fruit overtones. "Tawny port is best served slightly chilled as an aperitif," says Jorge, "or as a dessert wine with almonds and pears, or even a crème brulée. Older tawny ports develop a cognac-like quality, with a longer finish. They are best served as a digestif." We sample a #23 vintage port that has spent about ten years in a bottle. It is complex and rich. "Vintage is paired with cheese and chocolate, just the same as ruby port,"' Jorge explains. We step outside to a trellised terrace to take in a sweeping view of Porto and the river. On our left, Vinum, Graham's premier restaurant, is doing a brisk lunch business. The menu looks tempting, but we opt to return to the city for further exploration.
   

   
Only on foot does one fully appreciate the steepness of Porto's streets. "I bet a record number of steps will be show up on your Fit Bit by evening," I tell my husband as we strain uphill toward Sao Bento, considered one of the most beautiful train stations in the world. Named after a Benedictine monastery that once occupied the site, it is distinguished by a large vestibule covered with 20,000 tin-glazed azulejos, mostly in blue and white, depicting important historical moments in Portugal's past. Dating from 1905-1916, the tiles are the work of Jorge Colaco, considered the best azulejo painter of his time. We squeeze into a group of tourists and students perusing the Battle of Valdevez in 1140, the arrival of King John in 1387, and Henry the Navigator's Conquest of Ceuta in North Africa, among other scenes. Above the main panels, a multi-color border portraying the history of transportation frames an elaborate Beaux-Arts ceiling. Can there be another site in Portugal that better embodies its artistic legacy?

We head out, blending into a sea of people. During the first week of May thousands of students take to the streets, some dressed in flowing black capes and carrying long canes. It's their annual "Queima das Fitas," a boisterous, week-long celebration that takes place in Porto and Coimbra. Dating from the 19th century, Queima is made up of 12 events that commemorate the end of the school year, including a "burning of the ribbons," a symbolic farewell to academic life for graduating students. It begins with a Sunday serenáta (songfest featuring fado music) near the Porto Cathedral and reaches its peak on Tuesday with cortéjo académico, a grand procession leading to Avenida dos Aliados and the City Hall where students are greeted by the Mayor. There are concerts in the park where small tents are erected serving wine and beer. It's a rowdy, joyous affair. And today is Tuesday! We make our way through the crowds, noting that many students seem to be play-acting: Graduates are identified by top hats and briefcases, their canes aloft, with colorful ribbons that denote their academic specialty, while freshmen participate in little vignettes wearing comical baby and animal costumes. Everywhere, tiled facades are festooned with banners and flowers. "Please, please take our picture," several groups of freshmen plead as we push through the raucous horde.
   

   
Not far from the celebrants on Rua da Bandera is Mercado Bolhao, Chef Jamie Oliver's favorite European market, built over the site of a small creek. It's a huge, two-story structure jam-packed with rowdy fishmongers, butchers, bakers, greengrocers and florists. Interspersed among the fresh fare are souvenir stalls and even a few restaurants. Here, the definitive word is "pregao," meaning "please, how can I help you?" I pass by a flamboyant fishmonger lady hawking her last cache of Atlantic cod. Nearby, Turista is a casual eatery famed for Porto's popular monster sandwich, the francesinha. This meat lover's delight, also known as "croque-monsieur gone wild," is beloved by locals. It includes cured ham, sweet and spicy linguica sausage, and tender steak all covered with melted cheese, plus a side of fries! We step outside to Confeitaria do Bolhao, surely one of the most beautiful Art Deco shops in the world, accented with chartreuse tiles and mirrors. Display cases tempt with arrays of pastries, croissants and glazed cookies. The scent of freshly brewed coffee permeates the air. I suddenly remember Jorge bragging that "coffee in Porto is by far the best in the world, especially when served with pastéis de náta, Portugal's tiny custards." How we resisted taking his suggestion is beyond me!

It's been a long and wonderful day and fatigue is setting in. We begin a slow descent toward the Pestana, noting that Porto deserves a protracted stay. I make a mental list of all the landmarks we have yet to see, the Douro Valley Cruise we'd love to take, the tastes still to be savored, the multitude of shops to be explored. "And wouldn't it be lovely to learn a little Portuguese before we return," I mumble to myself.